Glossary

A

Ascot

A wide scarf or necktie, knotted so that its broad ends are laid flat upon each other, usually worn with a cutaway tuxedo.

B

Band Bow Tie

A bow tie with an adjustable band that wraps around the collar of the shirt and connects with a clasp.

Besom Pocket

A very narrow piping above the pocket slit. Can be satin besom or self besom, with flap.

Button Cover

An ornamental device worn at the neck of the shirt, clipping onto the button of the collar.

C

Collar

The turned-back material of the coat that falls around the back of the neck. On a tuxedo, the top collar can be made of satin, velvet or the same material as the coat.

Cuff Links

Ornamental device of two parts joined by a shank, chain, or bar for passing through button holes to fasten the shirt cuffs.

Cummerbund

A broad sash worn over the waistband of the pants. Pleats are worn with the opening facing up.

Cutaway

Also known as the 'morning suit', usually a dark grey or black coat worn traditionally for a formal daytime wedding. The coat is tailcoat length, buttons in the front and angles to the tail. Worn with striped trousers, wing collar shirt, pearl grey vest and ascot tie.

D

Dinner Jacket

A white or contrasting jacket worn with black trousers.  Traditionally worn for a semi-formal, summer evening event.

Double Besom Pocket

A pocket with narrow piping in satin or self besom above and below the opening, with no pocket flap.

Double-Breasted Coat

A tuxedo or suit coat that overlaps itself in the front, with two columns of buttons.

Double-Breasted Vest

A vest that overlaps itself in the front, with two columns of buttons.

E

Eton Coat

Also known as the Spencer. Resembles a full dress without the tails.

F

Formal Shoes

Patent leather shoe with a glossy finish.

Four-in-Hand Tie

A necktie fastened in a slipknot like a man’s regular necktie.

French Cuff

A wide shirt cuff that is folded back and fastened with a cufflink.

Full Back Vest

A vest which has a full back panel sewn in.

Full-Dress Tails

Known as the tailcoat, a very formal coat that is short in the front and long in the back.  Traditionally worn for ultra-formal evening events.

G

Gorge

Where the lapels start and the collar ends on a coat

H

High-Cut Vest

A vest that has more buttons on the front, and closes higher and closer to the collar.

L

Lapel

The turned back material between the coat collar and the front button. On a tuxedo, the lapel can be trimmed in satin, velvet or the same material as the coat.
M

Mandarin (Banded) Collar Shirt

A formal shirt with banded collar only, no wings. Worn with fancy button covers and usually features a wide pleated front.

N

Notch Lapel

A notch is cut out between the coat’s top collar and the lapel.

P

Pique Shirt/Vest

A white shirt or vest with a waffle-like texture on the front panel and cuffs.  Traditionally worn with Black Full-dress Tails for a ultra-formal evening event.

S

Shawl Collar

A coat where there is no change from the collar to the lapel. Instead, it is a rounding continuation of the collar.

Shirt

Shirts are available pleated, unpleated, with several different types of collars and cuffs, a variety of colors, and may come with or without studs.

Single-Breasted Coat

A coat that does not overlap in the front, and can have one, two, three, four or even a high five button front. With multiple button coats, the bottom button is always to be worn unbuttoned.

Straight Collar (also called Laydown Collar or Point)

Similar to most men’s dress shirts, a regular fold over style collar.

Stroller

Traditionally worn for a semi-formal daytime wedding this coat matches the Cutaway. Worn with striped trousers, pearl vest, straight (also called laydown) collar shirt and 4-in-hand tie.

Studs

A small ornamental button mounted on a short post for insertion through an eyelet next to the shirt button.

T

Tuxedo

A tuxedo is a formal evening suit distinguished primarily by satin or grograin facings on the jacket's lapels and buttons and a similar stripe along the outseam of the trousers.  The suit is typically black or midnight blue and commonly worn with a formal shirt, shoes and other accessories, most traditionally in the form prescribed by the black tie dress code.

W

Wing Collar

Also known as stand up collar, this is a formal shirt, usually with a pleated front that has wing-like pointed appendages.

V

Vests

A vest is a sleeveless garment covering the upper body, typically worn underneath a tuxedo jacket or suit coat.  Also known as a “waistcoat” in the UK and many Commonwealth countries, or a vest in the US and Canada. It is often worn as part of formal attire or as the third piece of a men’s dress suit.